Holy Hampi

Hampi is a wild place, situated between ancient ruins and breathtaking feats of nature. Enormous rocks balance precariously on top of one another for as far as the eye can see, each stone the size of a house, at least. Amid these rocky enclaves exist a vast array of ruins and excavation sites geared toward uncovering remnants of the Vijayanagara empire, which thrived from 1336 to 1565. It was finally destroyed by invading Muslim sultans, and sadly many of the intricate rock carvings have been destroyed partially, if not totally, because they were considered to be blasphemous idols by the Muslim conquerers. Still, many of the statues remain standing, the elephant god Ganesh having sacrificed his trunk in a thousand cases, the goddesses Lakshmi and Saraswati dance headless without their breasts, and other various gods survived to be forever amputees, missing one or several arms which at one point bore swords, coins, and snakes. But the kingdom was too large to be totally destroyed, and the natural beauty only adds to the awe of an archaelogical dream.



Hampi is sometimes identified with the Vanara, or monkey kingdom mentioned in the sacred text, the Ramayana. The very first historical settlements of the area date back to 1 BCE, though the greater temples, bath houses, elephant stables, and palaces came much later. The Hindu kingdoms thrived on the banks of the mighty Tungabhadra river, and were protected by the rocky hills on all sides. Picking my way through, around and over the countryside, I could easily transport myself to a time when the maharajas ruled. The surrounding villagers have been hired to excavate many of the ruins, an attempt by the Indian government to deter looting. The town of Hampi is very small and quiet, the hub of a World Heritage Site and a lot of appreciative visitors who stay longer than their intended two days.

The boat with eight people in it on the left gives some reference for the size of the boulders.

One of many temples...

...wherever you go, there you are. Temples as far as the eye can see.

Some too bizarre to comprehend.

What relics will be left of our civilization? Toasters and televisions?

Another defaced idol carved from an enormous stone.

These are the stables where the maharajas kept their battle elephants. Each stall is separate and blissfully cool inside.

Here are the initial steps leading out of town that lead to valley after valley of ruins.

An ancient public bath to cut the relentless heat.

Sunset over the town of Hampi.