San Telmo is the older part of Buenos Aires, a beautiful unfolding of cobblestone streets and small intricate doorways that lead to enormous terraces within colonial buildings. Balconies perch perilously over the street, many with pigeon fences to protect the inhabitants, and boast the most ornate carvings from lions to grape leaves. One could wander and just stare at the architecture in this part of the town for weeks, though the streets require as much attention to detail with infinite potholes and street grime.
In 1871 an epidemic of cholera broke out in this part of town, claiming 10,000 lives and an exodus of the middle and upper class citizens who lived in the gorgeous buildings (who fled to establish Barrio Norte in another part of the city). The properties were left abandoned, and many became housing for newly arriving immigrants from Europe. Thus, San Telmo became an incredibly multicultural neighborhood and center for industry. Only later, after the immigrants began to move out of the tenements did it become more Bohemian in the 1950's and 60's. That spirit can certainly still be felt in the cultural center, and the antique stores are absolutely to die for.
Nowadays super cool cafes line the streets, and for $2.50US you can get a cold beer, fries and watch couples tango in the plazas. The restaurants and bars are also really good in this area, from Italian to Sushi you can find anything, with delicious drinks going for about $4US for a martini or mojito (especially at Club Social). Less posh and more hipster, San Telmo is cheaper than other parts of the city and in many ways much more laid back.
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